Mastering Kalaya’s Southern Thai Goat Curry
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Published on May 30, 2026.
The author's first attempt at making gaeng pa was mediocre, but the author learned from Chef Nok Suntaranon, the legendary James Beard Award-winning chef at Kalaya, a Philadelphia restaurant recently ranked the seventh-best restaurant in America and featured on Netflix's Chef's Table. The author outlines the process for home chefs to masterfully create this Southern Thai goat curry. The process involves building a rich coconut bone broth, simmering leftover goat bones directly in coconut milk for several hours to extract every bit of marrow and flavor. The base of the curry base is created using herbs, high-quality shrimp paste, and technical patience. The Frying Technique, the Sneeze Test, and the Binder Technique, are the key to successfully creating this curry.
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